Archive for Cleaning Tips

Spruce Up Your Patio This Spring.

For the last few weeks, I have been looking out into my garden and making mental plans on what needs sorting out now that Winter has officially finished and Spring is finally here (well calendar wise, it doesn’t feel like spring yet temperature wise).

My eye is constantly drawn to the sorry state of my once proud patio, (I say drawn, it is more like an unconscious desire not to look at the Jurassic state of the lawn and flower beds at the moment). The slabs now have a distinctive greenish hue and look decidedly furry in bright sunlight and provided the weather holds for the weekend, I have to tackle the undergrowth (so the other half keeps telling me!).

Braving a short excursion to the shed tells me I am going to need to buy some proper stone cleaning liquids. A little bit of research later and I have found the two products that suit my purposes exactly and they are both from the same company.

Firstly, to give the flagstones a proper deep clean, I use HG Hagesan Patio Cleaner. Simple to use, wet the patio first and get rid of any puddles, dilute 1 litre of cleaner with 4 litres of water in a bucket or large bowl and get scrubbing, I like to use a proper Deck Scrubber Brush or hard wearing stiff bristled handheld scrubbing brush. Once you have done that, go and have a cup of tea, just don’t allow the liquid to dry out. When you have had your libation of choice, just rinse off with water (a garden hose will make short work of the rinsing process).

Now, to tackle the green and furry growth that has infected my nice (now clean) flagstone slabs, I use HG Hagesan Algae and Mould Remover, this is potent stuff and definitely gets the job done, dilute at about 1:20 water (500ml or half the bottle is about a decent sized bucket full) and “water” the affected area with a watering can of the mixture. You do need to give this time to work, it is going to need at least 36 hours really so best to put this down on a Friday evening and come back to it on Sunday afternoon. After this time, you can just brush or hose away the dead moss and algae and you will be left with paving or patio slabs that look like they were just laid the previous day.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a picture to show you how the patio turned out because I forgot to take a before photo D’oh!

At least now the patio is done and I can then turn my attention to the jungle that is the lawn, that is another weekends work.

Driving In Summer Could Cost You More Than You Think.

A nice sunny day, top down, the open road and the wind in your hair, Maybe a trip to the coast or just head off into the countryside, we all love a nice trip out. Problem is when you finally get back home again, does your car look like this at all?

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It looks like you have half the country’s bug population splattered all over your paintwork and windscreen. Bugs on the windscreen are a major problem, especially if you still have miles to go before your destination, not only do they look horrible but they pose a danger to your visual acuity and the wipers and screen wash only tend to make matters worse.

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It is vital that you take the time to get the remains off your paintwork as soon as possible and I mean as soon as possible, not next Sunday when you were planning to wash the car, I mean right now.

All us motorists know about bird droppings and the effect they have on your lovely shiny paintwork, well you may not realise that insides of your average bug is highly acidic so you can imagine what damage the couple of hundred or so currently adorning your bonnet and front bumper is doing to your finish if you do not act quickly.

A bucket and sponge and warm soapy water won’t get the job done, it may remove the lumpy bits, but not without some considerable effort, especially if you have left them to mature for a few days, but at that point, the damage has already been done and your pristine shine has turned to this.

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Once it has reached that stage, you are going to need professional help or worse a respray and both those options can cost ££££££’s.

A much more wallet friendly approach is to use a dedicated bug remover, one of the best is by McKlords who make the best selling Inspired range of cleaning products.

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The V12 Advanced Bug and Tar Remover is specially formulated to remove the bugs with ease without undue elbow grease and will not leave any streaks. It does this in a fraction of the time it will take with ordinary soap and water and will not damage the paint or leave a residue when dry. It also works on the glass of your windscreen and the plastics of your headlamps and number plates.

Personally, I keep a bottle in the glovebox along with a good microfibre cloth, that way I can tackle the bugs as soon as I get home. Click the green link above and purchase some for yourself, you won’t regret it.

UK Is Set For A Summer Ant Invasion

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Ants tend to keep the same nest for several years at a time if not disturbed and while a cold winter can wipe out a local ant colony, we have had the 3rd warmest winter in 100 years and a warm spring too, conditions are just about perfect for ants to mate and thrive.

The most common ant species in the UK is the Black Garden ant, which generally lives outside in nutrient-rich, moist environments. During the spring and summer, they are often found in the warm, damp area beneath paving slabs. They frequently make their way indoors in search of food and additional places to nest. Should they find a food source, the ants will lay down a chemical trail to give other ants a signal to follow, causing a potential problem to quickly escalate in your home.

Preventing an ant problem all starts with simple hygiene. Storing food in sealed containers and wiping down surfaces will go a long way to keeping your home ant free. If caught early, ant issues can be dealt with quickly and easily. A range of products are available for use indoors and outdoors, in the form of sprays and powders, and nests can be treated with a killer gel which the ants themselves then help spread within their nest.

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However, immovable infestations may require professional attention to effectively and finally deal with the problem, particularly if the ants have found their way into wall voids or under floor tiles.

There could also be an increase in the number of Flying Ants – these are the males and new queens produced by the black garden ant colony, growing up to three times the size of their peers. The goal of the flying ants is to breed and build new nests in other areas creating a potential pest nuisance for the following season. On a side note, flying ants make a tasty inflight snack for most common garden birds so if you see a large flock of birds suddenly appear over your house or garden around sunset / early evening then chances are you have flying ants in your immediate area.

Tips to prevent ant problems:

Exercise good hygiene
When there is a spillage or mess, clean it up as soon as possible. Once ants have found their food they leave chemical trails to lead other ants to the area. Be sure to clean up sticky messes, shut food containers properly, and don’t leave washing up to fester. Also keep surfaces clean and clear of food, so there won’t be anything to attract them.

Regular deep clean
Aside from maintaining a hygienic environment on a day to day basis, a regular, proactive cleaning regime plays an important role in avoiding an unwelcome visit from ants. Pay particular attention to those hard to reach places, which could be fostering the moist conditions craved by ants. Cleaning also disrupts the chemical trail left by ants.

Keep an eye out for any ants outside your home
Most patios are laid on sand, and ants will often emerge between the cracks to find and carry food. By watching where the ants disappear into the crack, you’ll be able to locate the nest and have a place to aim that ant killer spray before it spreads any further.

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As shown in the picture, the finely granulated soil on the pathway is a clear indication of an inhabited Ant colony and also marks the main entry / exit of the nest.

As the summer progresses and the weather stays hopefully warm, remember to check below windows before throwing them open and keep a close eye on any paving slabs or patio areas you have in your garden for the signs of an ant colony under your feet.

How To – Remove Fertilizer Rust Spots From Your Patio / Pathways

Have you got a stone path or patio that looks like this?

Did you use grass fertilizer recently?

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What you are looking at is Rust.  Many fertilizers on the market today contain a small percentage of iron. Fertilizers with iron are commonly used to create a greener, healthier lawn by preventing and correcting yellowing from iron or manganese deficiencies. But they also have a downside. If you manage to get any fertilizer particles on your stone path or patio and don’t remove them, the iron in the granules that settled onto your nice patio or pathway, probably by accident whilst you were spreading the fertiliser, when wet will oxidize and shortly afterwards start to show up as rust stains. These rust stains are extremely hard to remove until now.

HG Hagesan Stain Away Nº7 – Rust

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It was originally formulated for textile use, getting rust stains from clothing, however people discovered it also works at removing rust spots from concrete paths and driveways, it worked so well in fact, that HG included it on the product label.

All you have to do is soak a cloth in the product, place the cloth on the rust spots for a few minutes to give the liquid time to work into the concrete, leave it to work for a couple of hours.

Get a bucket with hot soapy water and a brush and scrub the wet brush over the stains and they will just lift right off, leaving you with a pristine looking path or drive again.

Unfortunately the product is only available in one size (50ml) but what price can you put on something that actually works even though it was never originally designed to do so.

Of the course the best answer is to the read the small print on the container of Grass Fertilizer before using and take heed. Avoid getting it on your path or patios in the first place!

How To – Keep Your Garden Pond Looking Its Best.

So you have built a pond, look great don’t they, the centerpiece of the garden, they are great to sit out beside on a warm Summer day, the gentle tinkle of the water feature and the splash of the Koi you spent more money on than you should have done because the guy in the garden centre said “you have to have Koi, can’t have a pond without Koi”.

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Problem is, they can soon become something that resembles scenes from that Burt Reynolds movie Deliverance, you know, the one with the banjos.

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Green Algae, the bane of every pond owners existence, it develops during the Winter months but will erupt suddenly in the Spring as the weather warms up, literally overnight, your once crystal clear, beautiful pond now looks like 5,000 litres of Pea Soup.

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Well don’t worry, you do not have to spend ages, draining the pond, scrubbing it clean and re-filling it, there is a much more simple solution.

Garden Genie Pond Clarifier.

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It uses naturally occurring bacteria, about 8 billion of them in a single sachet, what they will do is break down and kill the algae, both the Phytoplanktonic (the pea soup variety) and the Benthic (the stringy hairlike variety), the dead algae then rise to the surface where they can be skimmed off, a similar principle to how Professional Chefs create Consomé using egg white, just on a larger scale.

Just drop a sachet into the pond and wait. It will dissolve and begin to break down the algae. Because it is 100% naturally organic bacteria, it is harmless to Fish and other life in your pond and it even digests excess organic matter like fish poop, leaving your pond as clean and clear as the day you first filled it.

The best time to do this is late March / early April, before the algae really has time to develop but will still work if used later in the year.

The Garden Genie Pond Clarifier is the simplest and least expensive option over inline clarifiers that need to be plumbed into your pond’s water filters. For the price of a goldfish, you can return your pond to its pristine condition and enjoy seeing the Koi that you haven’t told the wife how expensive they were.

Just mind the Herons.

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How Clean is your Bathroom? – This will shock you.

*Warning: The subject matter discussed in this blog may induce feelings of YUK! and OMG! and in extreme cases EEEWWWWW!! It is recommended not to read during your lunch break*

You may not be aware of this, but when you brush your teeth, you are putting more than just a brush and toothpaste into your mouth, your toothbrush is also home to microscopic particles of fecal matter, you read that right, you are brushing your teeth with poop and it probably isn’t yours either.

There is a phenomena known as Toilet Plume, this occurs every time you flush. When a falling body of water meets a still body of water, it creates a plume of spray, imagine Niagara Falls but in your bathroom.

Toilet plumeThese droplets are so small, you can’t see them and because they are so small they can be carried in the air for up to 90 minutes before settling. Think of the size of your bathroom and what you have in there. Imagine if someone in your household is Ill, how often do you have to flush to completely clear the bowl?, twice?, three times? all you are doing is perpetuating the plume with each successive flush and of course you are spreading the germs further into the room.

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You can’t stop this from happening, but you can severely restrict it with one simple action, close the lid BEFORE flushing the Toilet.

This one act, will contain the plume to the immediate toilet area because the contents of the bowl will not be able to atomise completely and will be larger in droplet size which will be much heavier and settle almost immediately where they can be dealt with easily and hygienically.

A good spritz with HG Toilet Area Cleaner (⇐ click the link to purchase) a couple of times a day or after each use if you wish, will keep your toilet area and bathroom an awful lot cleaner and germ free.

You can also minimise the chances of picking up any unpleasant bugs by keeping toothbrushes and mouthwash in closed cabinets or at least covered when not in use.

Right, now that I am done making everyone feel queasy, i’m off to Boots to replace my toothbrush.

 

How To – Look After Your Terracotta Floor.

Terracotta-Floor

Terracotta floors, look great don’t they, give your home a mediterranean look and are cool in the summer.

As good as they look, they can be tricky to keep looking like new. Well sit back and grab a cuppa and I will give you some hints and tips to make it easier.

First step is to vacuum or sweep the floor before you begin.

1. Cleaning

For just regular maintenance cleaning see our maintenance section (No.3 below).

To give the floor a thorough, deep clean and to remove old layers of old layers of HG Terracotta Shine Seal, we would recommend using HG Terracotta Remover.

HG Terracotta Remover should remove most other water-based polishes or waxes – however we cannot guarantee that it will remove all other manufacturers products.
For the removal of stubborn dirt dilute 1:5 with water. For the removal of polishes or wax use undiluted.
Apply to the floor with a mop and leave to work for several minutes. If necessary scrub the floor. Then mop up with a mop or cloth.
Coverage: 10 to 15 m² per litre undiluted or 30 – 50 m² per litre diluted.

a) Removing cement, plaster, builders dust, grout residue/film use: HG Cement Grout Film Remover (HG Extra).
Dilute with water a solution of 1:4 is used. Apply liberally and spread over the floor covering no more than 10-15 m² at a time. Leave to work for 15-20 minutes, keeping the floor wet.
Scrub thoroughly with a pad or a stiff scrubbing brush and mop up. Rinse well (2-3 times) with water.
Coverage: 1 litre for 20-50 m².

b) Removing stubborn cement, grout, white bloom, salt deposits (efflorescence*) and mortar use: HG Cement, Mortar and Efflorescence Remover.
*Efflorescence is caused by soluble salts transferred by water, being drawn towards a drying surface by the movement of water. At the surface the water responsible for the transportation of the salts evaporates leaving behind the salts as a surface deposit.
Depending on the degree of residues dilute 1:4 to 1:10 with water. Apply and spread with a scrubbing brush or pad.
Leave to work for a couple of minutes. Scrub thoroughly till clean then rinse off with plenty of water. Repeat if necessary.
1 litre approx. 20 to 40 m².

c) Removing surface Oil and Grease Stains use: HG Spot Stain Remover
First mix by shaking the bottle before. Can be used concentrated on severe staining, otherwise dilute 1:5 with warm water, apply and spread over the area.
Use a scrubbing pad or brush. Scrub and leave to work for 5-10 minutes. When staining has been loosened, mop up and rinse off thoroughly with plenty of clean water. Treatment may need to be repeated.

d) For Oil and Grease Stains on porous Terracotta use HG Oil and Grease Absorber
Stir well. Use a palette knife or spoon and apply approximately 1/2 cm thick coating to the stain.
Apply around the edges of the stain moving towards the middle. Wait for at least 4 hours, until it has dried completely into an easily removable ‘cake’.

e) Removing Floor Glue Residues use: HG Floor Glue Remover
Extensive remements must first be perforated using a pricking roller or a similar tool. Remover must be able to penetrate very well into the glue layer to be effective.
Remaining glue should be well covered using a brush. After 10-15 minutes scrape off the glue using a filling knife.
Repeat the treatment, if necessary allowing longer to work.
Finally rinse the surface with water and allow it to dry.
Coverage: 0.5 – 1 litre per m²

2. Sealing
Once the floor has been cleaned we recommend checking to see if the floor requires sealing. Carry out a porosity test to see if the tiles are porous.
Use a tablespoon of water on the tile. If after 5-10 minutes none of the water has been absorbed into the surface the surface is sealed (not porous) and you can skip to step no. 3 – Finishing.
If however the water is absorbed into the surface of the tile we would recommend using HG Impregnating Sealer to seal.
This will make the tile non-porous making the tile impervious to water and water-based staining.
Rinse the floor with a lot of warm water (after cleaning) and leave to dry for 3 days before sealing (floor must be completely dry).

Use HG Tile Impregnating Protector to seal and protect.

Use neat, evenly, in one direction with our Superfine Roller or a Non-Fluffy Cloth. After a maximum of 5 minutes HG Impregnator is drawn into the surface. Remove any excess immediately after this 5 minutes with a dry cloth, dampened if necessary with white spirit. If the Impregnator is fully absorbed and no surplus is required to be wiped off, a second/third treatment may be needed until the Impregnator is no longer absorbed.
After treatment the surface should retain a matt appearance. Allow 2 hours before applying a second or more coats depending on porosity. After approx. 4 hours the surface can be walked upon.
Coverage approx. 8-10 m² per litre. 5 m² for 2 coats.

3. Finishing

Then it is all about the finish you prefer. You have four choices.

a) If you are happy with the colour and matt finish after sealing you can just use HG Terracotta Clean and Shine as a regular maintenance product.
Use diluted as necessary: 100ml (1 cup) to 5 litres (1/2 bucket) of warm water for cleaning floors. Increase strength if floor requires it.
Scrub or mop the floor as necessary. Smooth tiles can usually be mopped clean but it may be advisable to scrub tiles with a rustic surface.
Wring the mop in a separate bucket of clean water to avoid soiling the solution. The water can be changed as it becomes dirty. This save wasting the clean solution.
Do not rinse the floor after cleaning because you will remove the shine compounds left by the product. Allow to dry naturally.

b) Or use HG Terracotta Shine Seal to give a shine/gloss and a protective coating.
Use neat. Do not pour directly onto the floor. Apply with either a Non-Fluffy Cloth (perhaps wrapped around a floor mop), a Mohair Paint Roller. (not foam or wool) or with a wax-applicator moistened with HG Terracotta Shine Seal. Apply thinly and evenly in one direction. Several thinly applied coats are better than one thick coat.
Allow to dry for at least 45 minutes before applying the next coat to achieve a smooth shining finish. The floor can be walked on after approximately 3 hours. After 3 days the product is completely hardened.
The stain resistance of the floor can also be increased by applying additional coats.
Coverage: 20-25 m² per litre.

c) Or you if you prefer a wax to enhance, deepen or change the colour of the terracotta and give a rich shine you can use HG Terracotta Wax available in two colours.
Should be applied at surrounding temperatures of above 15 degrees celsius. Apply at 20 degrees celsius (warm by immersing the bottle in warm water, pouring it into a bucket and stirring thoroughly) with a soft brush evenly across the tiles and grout joints. Max 2 m² at a time.
Wax should then be rubbed in thoroughly and polished with a cloth or buffing machine.
Coverage: 2.5 – 10 m² per litre.

After application, wax should be left for at least two weeks (to cure).
Clean the floor with HG Terracotta Remover to ensure good adhesion with the wax. Allow to dry thoroughly (3 days).
Do not shake before use. Apply with a clean, damp, Non-Fluffy Cloth wrapped around a floor mop.
Pour a little onto floor as well as onto cloth and apply evenly and thinly in one direction. Do not rub in or polish.
Coverage:25-40 m² per litre.

4. Maintenance

Whether you decide to use HG Terracotta Shine Seal, or HG Terracotta Wax we recommend HG Terracotta Clean and Shine as a maintenance cleaner.
Depending on traffic we would periodically recommend using HG Terracotta Remover to remove all the old layers of wax or shine seal and start a fresh.

Well, I hope that gives you some help on the maintenance of your Terracotta floor, sorry it’s a bit wordy but it will keep your Terracotta floor looking like it was put down yesterday.

How To – Spring Clean Your Home. Part 2, Downstairs.

Find PART ONE HERE.

Previously, I helped you tackle the upstairs, in this part I will help you tackle the downstairs, in particular the kitchen.

Remember, Tidy, Dust, Clean, Vacuum in that order.

The downstairs areas are the highest traffic areas of your home and thus usually take longer to clean, I recommend starting with the largest area first, this is normally the living room or family area.

The Living Room.

Start with a general tidy up, kids toys away, magazines in the rack or thrown out etc. Once that is done, the real work can begin.

Dust down the ceiling and corners of walls.

Determine if the walls need washing for dirty spots. Spot wash, remembering air vents, doorknobs, doors, and switch plates.

Dust and clean all art and photographs along the wall.

Be careful when cleaning framed art and photographs. Never spray cleanser or water onto the frame. The liquid can seep behind the glass and damage the pictures. Instead lightly wet a clean cloth to wipe the frame and glass.

Dust and clean the ceiling fan if you have one.

There is nothing more embarrassing than turning on a ceiling fan and having large chunks of dust fall down on your guest’s head. Use this spring cleaning time to dust down the fan and fan blades. Take down any light fixtures and gently wash and dry them before replacing.

Take down draperies, curtains, and blinds to wash or have cleaned according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Vacuum and clean windowsills and corners. Wash the insides and outsides of the windows. Take down and rinse off screens, before replacing.

Dust and clean out the sofas and chairs.

Use a vacuum cleaner with attachment to clean out couch crevices. Check to make sure none of your missing items have found their way into the abyss of the couch. Clean slipcovers, accent pillows, etc. Use an upholstery attachment on a rug shampoo machine to clean soiled couches and chair surfaces if needed. If a light cleaning is needed use upholstery spot cleaner. Test in a hidden area first.

Dust down and clean all accent lamps and knickknacks.

Use a vacuum attachment or duster to clean the lampshades, lamps, and any extra decorative items.

Remove books from bookshelves.

Dust down the books and the shelves.

Dust down accent tables and the entertainment center.

Unplug and dust down all the electronics. Check cords for fraying and wear. Dust down the television screen (use a clean dust cloth for the TV screen, never apply cleaner or spray directly onto the screen itself).

Clean the carpets and rugs.

If your carpets and rugs are heavily soiled it may be time to call a professional. You can also rent cleaning machines to use. Be sure to ask for one with an upholstery attachment. If your carpets are only lightly soiled vacuuming and spot treating may be all that is necessary.

That’s the living room or family room done, now for …

The Kitchen

I’m not going to cover the fridge in this guide, I refer you to my previous blog here.

Dust down the ceiling and corners of walls.

Determine if the walls need washed completely or just spot cleaned. Spot wash, remembering air vents, doorknobs, doors, switch plates. Walls will likely need to be washed more often in this room than in others. Pay special attention to places where people are likely to rest their hands. You may not have noticed that the hand mixer or blender sloshed goop all over the wall. Take your time now to clean the grease, grime, and spilled food from your walls.

Dust and clean all art and photographs along the wall.

Use a microfiber cloth to dust down art and photographs. Occasionally these items may need to actually be washed. Wipe down with a slightly damp rag,being careful not to let any liquid seep behind the frame and damage the photo.

Dust and clean the ceiling fan.

The kitchen ceiling fan always seems to be a little more difficult to clean because of the grease and food residue in the kitchen. Take down any light fixtures and gently wash and dry them before replacing.

Take down draperies, curtains, and blinds to wash or have cleaned according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Vacuum and clean windowsills and corners. Wash the insides and outsides of the windows. Take down and rinse off screens, before replacing.

Apply oven cleaner to the oven and clean the refrigerator.

Leave the windows in the kitchen open to avoid the overpowering smell. Don’t forget to vacuum the coils of your unplugged refrigerator. Go ahead and inspect the cord for any fraying or damage as well. This is a great time to sweep and mop underneath it too if you can find some help to move it. Be careful of scratching your floor.

Take the knobs, burners, burner covers, and spill catchers off of the stove.

Follow your stove/oven owner’s manual for information on proper cleaning methods for your model. (The one you carefully filed, when you bought the stove, just for an occasion like this.) Some stovetops lift up to allow easy access to spills and crumbs. Wipe down the entire stove.

Wipe down and clean the toaster, blender, and other small appliances.

Wipe down and clean the microwave. If the spills in the microwave are fossilized, try bring a water-filled glass cup to boiling in the microwave. The steam should help loosen the gunk then I recommend using HG Microwave Cleaner. If the microwave smells, boil lemon juice. Unplug all appliances first. Don’t forget the turntable.

Clean out kitchen cabinets.

Reline if needed. Remove mismatched lids and bowls. Take out anything that isn’t being used on a regular basis. Reorganize and wash down the insides and outsides of cabinets.

Run the dishwasher empty.

Try adding vinegar or baking soda to the empty dishwasher before running it. If your dishwasher has a food trap in the bottom, clean it out. Wash down the outside of the dishwasher.

Wash down the countertops in your kitchen.

Don’t forget backsplashes. How you clean your countertops depends heavily on what type of material they are made from.

Wipe down and clean out any drawers.

Organize your flatware. This is a great time to install drawer dividers to better organize your kitchen drawers.

Wash down the sink.

If you have a garbage disposal now is the time to pour baking soda with warm water and/or a lemon peel down the disposal to freshen the drain. Put ice cubes through the disposal to sharpen the blades.

Sweep and mop the floors.

Don’t forget baseboards. One of the best ways to get a floor REALLY clean is to use a rag or towel while on your hands and knees. If this is not an option try going barefoot and scooting a large towel around the floor with your feet. It provides more contact and pressure with the floor. Press gently, and be careful and slow. Even though this is the last step, the floor is not the best place to rest.

Phew, that probably took me longer to write that it does you to actually do the cleaning, but hopefully I have given you a helping hand (figuratively speaking of course).

How To – Spring Clean Your Home

spring-cleaning-just-ahead

Yep, it’s that time again, the sun is shining (ok, that was a bit far fetched but at least it is not raining, fingers crossed.), the birds are singing and the early flowers are starting to bloom. It is time to throw open those windows and dispel the winter funk, so break out the marigolds and blow the dust off the Dyson, it’s

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Start At The Top

Your upstairs is where the majority of your biggest jobs are going to be so get them out of the way first, the bedrooms. Believe it or not, the order you do things is quite important. First tidy, then dust, then clean and finally vacuum.

Getting the small stuff done first, allows you more time to tackle the big stuff. The Bed.

It is recommended you flip your mattress every 3 months, (unless you have bought one with a topper, refer to your mattress label for directions.) also swap the head to foot as well, this helps to keep the shape and avoid permanent indentations from sleeping. You can also run the vacuum over the mattress at a low power setting, pay particular attention to the edges and seams, this is where (and apologies if this makes you squirm) the bed bugs and parasites congregate. If you have any “other marks or discolourations” on the mattress, you may want to try Inspired Mattress Stain Remover 300ml to remove them if possible.

Take this opportunity to completely replace the bedding and launder the ones you have taken off the bed.

Next Up, the Bathroom.

Again, tidy is the first step, throw out any bottles of product that are empty or have just another squirt in them, be ruthless. do the same with the cabinets, throw out any old medicines or lotions that are sitting in the back of the cabinet that never got used. Wipe the shelves down with a damp cloth, take down and wash the shower curtain, if you have a glass shower enclosure use HG Glass and Mirror Spray to remove any soap or water marks. Don’t forget to give the tiles a once over and check for any potential mould in the grout or silicone seals.

Tackling the Toilet is the job that no-one wants to do but is probably the most important one.

Remove everything from around the toilet.

Cleaning the toilet is a messy job, and there’s always the chance of splashing cleanser or toilet water outside of the actual toilet. Prevent extra cleanup by removing all excess items from around the toilet. Don’t forget to remove anything on top of the tank to prevent dropping items into the bowl during cleaning.

Flush and add cleaning solution.

Flush the toilet with the lid down to prevent splashing or spraying. Add your choice of powdered, liquid, or gel cleanser to the bowl. Try to apply the cleaner as close to the toilet rim as possible to prevent diluted cleanser. For the best results I would recommend HG Super Powerful Toilet Cleaner 500ml squirt under the rim and leave.

Clean the exterior of the toilet.

While the cleansing solution soaks into the toilet grime in the bowl, clean the outside of the toilet ( For the rest of the toilet, I recommend HG Hygienic Toilet Area Toilet Cleaner 500ml) Start at the top to prevent dripping on already clean surfaces. Spray the tank, handle, and tank edges with cleaner and wipe down. Next do the outside lid of the toilet. Finally wipe down the entire bowl. Start with the sides and front before cleaning the bottom edges of the toilet where it meets the floor.

Clean the toilet seat.

The toilet seat should never be neglected. It is the part of the toilet that comes into actual contact with people, and it needs to be cleaned thoroughly. Raise the seat. Spray the seat, inside lid and the rim of the toilet with cleanser. Wipe down the lid, seat, and hinges at the back of the toilet seat. Some toilets have hinges that will pop open to allow better access for cleaning.

Clean the inside of the toilet bowl.

Begin cleaning the bowl from the top down. Always begin scrubbing under the rim first. Look under the rim to get all the stains and grime scrubbed away. Next scrub the bowl. Finally scrub the hole at the bottom of the toilet. Flush the toilet with the lid down.

Wipe up any drips or spills.

Wipe up any drips of cleanser or water that may have occurred.

That should pretty much cover you for the upstairs. Next time, the downstairs including the dreaded Kitchen (oh the horror!!)

How to Clean a Dirty Headstone or Gravestone with Ease

*The before and after photographs are 100% genuine. The images have only been manipulated to remove the background and to obscure the identity of the deceased.*

A large amount of us spend a lot of money on the passing of a loved one. Some of the costs you can’t avoid and others are because we want a tangible reminder of the person once they are gone. A burial plot and a headstone in the local cemetery are the usual methods to accomplish this.

Headstones are usually constructed from Marble or Granite and whilst they serve as the perfect memorial to your departed loved one, they do degrade over time because of weathering. Virtually all objects, if left exposed to the natural elements will weather and degrade and headstones are a prime example of this.

Take a walk through any churchyard or cemetery and you can easily tell the older headstones from the younger ones. Even young headstones can quickly become discoloured and illegible due to weathering. However all is not lost and you can return your loved one’s memorial to an almost pristine state, simply and cheaply with this. (Click Below ↓ )

HG Headstone Cleaning Spray.

Headstone-Cleaning-Spray_380

HG Hagesan Headstone Cleaning Spray removes thoroughly and effortlessly dirt, bird droppings, and other heavy soiling from natural stone and marble headstones and statues. HG Headstone Cleaning Spray is also suitable for use on plasterwork and masonry.

Now, we don’t expect you to take our word for it. A few days ago, a customer came to us for advice on restoring their relatives headstones in the local area, they purchased the headstone cleaning spray on our recommendation and kindly agreed to take photos.

 

 

The first three photos, the headstones were erected in the 1980’s.

Headstone1 Headstone2 Headstone4

The next photo, the headstone was erected in 1939 and was completely illegible from 6 feet away.

Headstone3

None of these headstones have been professionally restored or cleaned, these were done just using HG Headstone Cleaning Spray and a tiny bit of elbow grease.

Having the headstone professionally cleaned can cost upwards of £150 depending on the size and replacing the stone outright can be more.

*photos reproduced with permission*